I have to give some details before I continue, the weekend of my birthday happened to be when Fiona hit the eastern seaboard. I was in shock to see the ferry round the corner behind us. I wasn’t surprised, but overwhelmingly emotional that I was getting my opportunity to see a part of my home province that I had never seen. I was 12 when I was last on a ferry, in the summer of 1995, that summer changed everything. My 12 year old self needed an escape at 40. I got an experience I’ll never forget and will cherish.
This is where the story of adventure begins. I have a cell phone that’s on the wrong side of the carrier gods on this island. So, we needed to find out which cottage we were supposed to be in.
Island time is real, laid back and flows with the tides. So much so, the cottage owner forgot to email us the cottage information. We made our way back down Ingalls Head road to a restaurant, who graciously let us use their phone. We went back that night to thank them and got a pizza from them. This is when I realized I was in a magical place and space.
That night I experienced the rocky beaches and some great views.
The day we arrived was monumental because what we arrived to was pure joy…what we left on the other side of the province was unfolding chaos.
We ended our night in the living room of our cottage and mom opened Facebook to reveal the cresting waves and flooding in Shediac. I couldn’t help but cry because of the wrath of Fiona. With 2 hours to spare my hairdresser and her husband got their boat out of Shediac bay and out of Fiona’s way. Two hours later and things could have been disastrous.
I was safe and enjoying not being home. Conflicted with emotions I went to sleep early on the couch and woke up at 2:30 am. I decided to go outside and look at the stars, shooting stars and enjoy some air. Mom peaked her head out to see me looking up wrapped in my comforter I brought with me from home.
Got back to sleep and woke up refreshed and raring to explore.
The second day was filled with more expect the unexpected. We started slowly watching the sun come up. I ate a Boston cream donut, before my parents we coherent enough to know. Dad opened the pantry, aka a shopping bag on top of the fridge. That revealed small boxes of cereal and snacks. These mini cereal packs were a blast from my childhood. The cereal your parents didn’t want you eating because of the sugar. I dove in to some Corn Pops and made myself at home. Then we made plans for our adventures. It started with dad walking our beach before the tide came in fully and some research on my part.
We decided to go to a beach near the Swallowtail light. I knew we’d get caught, the tides don’t wait. What I saw was magic.
The choices of food are pretty good considering that the island houses about 2000 permanent residents.
Day 2 fuel was very pleasing. Next was another beach near the ferry. This is a beach I’d recommend and many people do enjoy…Stanley beach. The road is across from the hospital and is a popular spot for all the wandering people and beachcombers.
This is where I met up with a lady, that we met on the ferry ride over. She was staying at the Swallow tail cottages. Near the ferry terminal. We walked the beach together for a bit and enjoyed each others company. This is also the place I drowned my canvas shoes, that took over 72 hours to dry.
We wound down at about 5pm as the island was shutting down for the day. We ate snacks for dinner as we regrouped in the living room.
Off to bed we went. I went to bed at about midnight and this time I slept in my bedroom not on the couch. Before sleep I heard a car at the end of the property (it’s music at first), it was another couple in cottage 5 that must have taken the last ferry ride of the day and ended up being the only other people in the cottages our entire stay.
The last few hours on the island were memorable. Breakfast, got trapped on Grand Manan, captured a Grand Manan nut, found out how Dulse is harvested and drank 4 shots of espresso before leaving on the mid day ferry back to mainland New Brunswick.
Dulse is a dried seaweed you can eat, this is nearing high tide when it floats so they can spear it into these tiny boats. The drying process is carefully calculated to the sunny weather. So the dulse dries and doesn’t grow mould. The sun came out later that day as we left for home. This is the day I put the dulse fishing pieces together.
The moody departure was well received considering the sun was with us for almost all 36 hours we were on the island. The moody departure was telling us we could go. By the time we boarded the ferry it went from thunder, lightning and rain to overcast skies. Pretty smooth sailing and more moody weather awaited us until we arrived home to Moncton, with sunny skies and a cheery disposition.
That’s it, a few fun moments captured on Grand Manan. My heart is still yearning for a return, sooner than later!
CharFlew
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